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Old 04-27-2014, 12:24 AM   #1
mugget

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Question TR-108 Release Wax, Usage Q's. Is Tape Test Universal?

Hi folks,

Just started waxing a plug this weekend using some new TR-108 release wax that I picked up a while ago. When I opened the tin I was wondering if it had been sitting for too long... there was a hard surface on top, not sure if that is normal? The only other wax I've used before was a blue colour with solvent mixed in so it stayed liquid in the tin.

Anyway, I had 5 coats of the TR-108 on the plug and thought I'd try the "tape test". Took some masking tape and pressed a small length onto the plug and it stuck... now I'm wondering about this release wax.

I followed the application directions, wiped on, then off before the wax dries (it does go on with a slightly "wet" appearance, and if left it would take on a bit of a haze). Leaving 30 minutes minimum between coats.

I'm just wondering if I should be worried about it, does the tape test always work - or are there some waxes that the test doesn't work with?

I put a few drops of water on the plug and it beads up and just rolls right off, so it looks like the wax is on there. Just wondering about this because I haven't made many parts and have never had a 100% successful release with wax - but previously I've made errors in leaving too much wax on the surface which I now know is actually bad for a good clean release. This plug with the TR-108 has no visible signs of the wax, no steaks, haze etc. just the painted surface of the part.

This plug I'm starting with is a really simple one, so I will probably just end up going ahead and give it a try anyway.

But if anyone has experience specifically with TR-108 I'd be interested to hear about it.

Cheers

Edit >>

Just trying to look up some info on Google and already finding conflicting instructions about how to apply TR-108. For instance:

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/p-1574-tr-108-basic-mould-release-new-moulds.aspx
TR 108 Mould release wax.
Formulated to break in new moulds, gives a deeper wax coating.

If you are using on a new fibreglass mould please read carefully for best application.
After you have finished preparing the surface of your mould wash down with hot soapy water, let dry and apply the first coat of wax, using small circular motions apply, let dry for five minutes and buff off with a clean cotton cloth, and again with another , keep these cloths seperate and use the second one after the first each time , this will ensure you are not immediately creating any uneccessary build up.
Repeat this process at least twelve times at least an hour between each application. Do not apply wax within the hour as you will just be dissolving the one you have just put on.
When all the waxes have been applied for insurance it's best to apply a coat of PVA release agent to the first lift, let dry, then apply 2 % catalyst to your gelcoat minimum, this should cure of in 20 minutes or so.
It is then advisable to apply just 2 layers of matting with 2% catalyst added to the polyester resin, what you are doing here is breaking the mould in.
After the first breaking in lift, wash the PVA release agent off with hot soapy water, then apply another 3 - 4 waxes, each again with one hour between each.
Now you can safely Gelcoat your mould (2% Catalyst minimum), and apply your reinforcement.
Although I have a new plug (not a new mould) that makes me think I should just wash down my plug and start over...

Or should I really be using the TR-301 sealer before even applying any wax?

Last edited by mugget; 04-27-2014 at 12:44 AM. Reason: Added Info
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:14 AM   #2
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You'll be fine mate. I use the TR-108 myself, sounds exactly like what you are describing. Don't leave it on for too long, it gets difficult to buff off. I usually do sections of my moulds at a time so that the area I started in doesn't dry too much.

As for the tape test, I recently used the TR-108 to RAISE the surface tension of my mould surface after applying Frekote, as I didn't want my gelcoat to fisheye. I've also never had an issue with the bagging tape sticking to moulds prepped with release wax, so I think the wax just doesn't lower the surface tension to that extent.
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:21 PM   #3
mugget

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Well I went ahead and did a layup on one of the most simple shaped plugs. It released after quite a bit of coersion, but I must have an issue in my plug finishing process. The entire painted topcoat of the plug lifted off into the mould.

Well that is one way to do in-mould coating I guess?

Using a razor blade scraper the paint comes out of the mould fairly easily, so it makes me think the wax is not a problem. I will run this by the paint shop and see what they say about my painting process (it was all 2k).

I had one recessed bolt hole that I thought might be tricky so I used a little bit of hairspray to ease the release and that is the cleanest release on the entire part... The surface looks well acceptable (glossy) and the paint didn't stick there so I think I will just use hairspray for these initial moulds at least, since the rest of my plugs are already painted the same as that first one.

Maybe when it's gelcoat on gelcoat instead of gelcoat on paint it will be fine with the wax? But it makes me a bit nervous because I want to make epoxy parts out of these moulds and I know that sticks a heck of a lot more than polyester. Maybe the hairspray will remain as my default method.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:40 PM   #4
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Stick ups are mostly caused by improperly cured surfaces.

A new plug should be really well cured and preferably sealed with a semi permanent sealer like Frekote or other. Gelcoat pattern surfaces could be considered safer as they will cure more fully than paints. Paints can take a week or more to get full cure.

Some reading here http://www.rexco-usa.com/why-molds-stick/
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:40 PM   #5
mugget

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Pretty sure the paint was cured on this one... I painted it 10 months ago!

I was trying to keep this project fairly low-budget, but starting to think that I should just do it "properly" (well, at least as fool-proof as possible) with semi-perm sealer & release. I've already put in so much time & used 2k paint to do the plugs right, shouldn't try to cut corners now. Only problem is my local supplier sells it in commercial quantities only.

Don't suppose that anyone knows where I could buy small quantities in Brisbane? Or any suppliers in Australia that will ship? Otherwise I think I will just order from Easy Composites or similar.
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Old 05-15-2014, 11:06 PM   #6
fasta

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I don't know then but still speculating that the paint was not mixed correctly?

Apart from that I don't know.

I use Frekote and I know it is not really available (in Australia) in the 1/4 gallon even though Frekote sell it.

Try Lavender composites in Qld, they have some release options. Marbocote I think.

http://www.lavender-ce.com/advanced-...elease-agents/

Last edited by fasta; 05-16-2014 at 01:11 AM.
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