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Old 09-15-2014, 09:56 PM   #11

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I use 2k every day , and grew up in and around a smash repair shop.
It sound like to me you have not used 2k paint. ???
2k doesn't get effected by acetone or does it with GP thinners. If I where to rub down one of my wings with thinners I don't get any colour on the cloth...
All acrylic car paints etc WILL be damaged by both thinners and acetone type solvents.

Can you post pics of what paint you used ?? It might help with a resolution.

If if it is acrylic , you could do a small test piece and put some of your polyester you are going to use and see the reaction.
The problem comes when you do a mould and the wet polyester sitting on the acrylic for a long time , just desolves the paint.
If it is 2k it will be fine.

So if it is acrylic......
You would have to use a epoxy surface coat or tooling coat and that would be fine and causes no reaction with paint. As we have done it plenty of times with RC glider fuses and wings.

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Old 09-18-2014, 12:33 PM   #12

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They sell it as "poliuretano alifatico de 2 componentes". It s very hard and used to paint stairs for example and its a pain to sand. Seeking for a translation i got aliphatic and chemical definitions i am not fond of???
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:54 PM   #13

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Originally Posted by berridos View Post
They sell it as "poliuretano alifatico de 2 componentes". It s very hard and used to paint stairs for example and its a pain to sand. Seeking for a translation i got aliphatic and chemical definitions i am not fond of???
In English, this translates to "two-part aliphatic polyurethane" which, to be more complete is "two-part linear aliphatic polyester polyurethane." This is the "high-priced spread," used for very hard, very abrasion resistant, very tough, very durable and very glossy (usually) coatings of all kinds. Clear, it's used for stairs and floors, bowling alleys, gym floors, etc. Pigmented, it's used to coat airplanes, boats (above the waterline), sometimes cars. Awlgrip is a widely used paint formulation I have experience with. There are others. I don't have experience using these as mold coatings and I don't know how the molding versions differ from the top end paint formulations (if at all). I'd like to learn more about that usage of the polyurethanes.

In paint usages, there are also "two part acrylic polyurethanes." These are a bit softer, a bit less abrasion resistant, tougher coatings. They are somewhat easier to apply, can be rolled and tipped to give an "almost sprayed" finish and for a less demanding surface, they can be brushed. A paint example of these is AwlCoat 2000, somewhat less expensive than Awlgrip. Again, there are other brands.

If you use it properly, once cured either form of two-part polyurethane won't dissolve or soften in acetone, any common thinner, petroleum products, most acids, most bases or spit. If you get it wiping up with acetone, you should review your mixing and application procedures and make sure you're following directions carefully. It sounds like you're adding something "extra" that is short-stopping the curing reaction after it's applied. Do you have the right converter? The right thinner?

While I know a bit of polyurethane chemistry and uses of polyurethane paints, I'd like to learn more about their use in composites molding. Anybody? Anybody? Buehler?
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finish, plug, wing

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