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Old 07-31-2014, 09:38 PM   #11
2talljohn

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Short answer, yes. Just sand it when you are done. If you want a smoother finish use a urethane primer.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:15 AM   #12
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Sounds good, thanks. Is it possible to take a 50/50 primer/hi-gloss to a mirror finish? Why do you suggest using a urethane primer as well?
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:52 AM   #13
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Duratec primers can be sanded and polished, although not as good as the topcoat. Adding clear to it will make it flow a little better. It will also make it harder to sand (not much, but harder). The more clear you put in, the harder the surface and the better it will polish.

If you have a good bit of fairing to do on the plug, spraying with the EZ Sanding primer is best. You can build up thickness and it sands quickly. The Surfacing primer will also build up fairly well but it is a bit harder to sand than EZ Sanding. If you only want to buy one product, get the surfacing primer. It gives a better finished surface.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
Duratec primers can be sanded and polished, although not as good as the topcoat. Adding clear to it will make it flow a little better. It will also make it harder to sand (not much, but harder). The more clear you put in, the harder the surface and the better it will polish.

If you have a good bit of fairing to do on the plug, spraying with the EZ Sanding primer is best. You can build up thickness and it sands quickly. The Surfacing primer will also build up fairly well but it is a bit harder to sand than EZ Sanding. If you only want to buy one product, get the surfacing primer. It gives a better finished surface.

Great, that's about what I've done. The plug was constructed out of CNC milled MDF but there were a couple of gouges in the pattern, so there was indeed quite a bit of bondo-ing and then I used to duratec to fill the rest. It's worked out quite well. I'm going to go ahead and order some hi-gloss additive for a final coat of duratec once everything has been knocked level and the sanding action can be dedicated just to getting a mirror finish, instead of leveling.




Does Frekote FMS and then 700/770 work well as a release between duratec and an epoxy tooling coat? I'm planning on vacuum infusing the mold and I'd like to do it with an epoxy system.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:48 AM   #15
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Regardless if you mix in some hi gloss additive you will still have porosity issues because of the micro spheres/ glass bubbles in the primer surfacer.look closer , you'll see them, just Shiney pores...use there clear coatings for porosity free surface.far as using a semi perm release, it will work just fine on primer surfacer with or without hi gloss additive . ve, poly or epoxys compatable.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:12 PM   #16
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So I'm trying to choose which duratec topcoat I should go with. I've decided against using the hi gloss additive mixed with the primer and am considering going with their 'Hi Gloss Coating' (http://duratec1.com/pdf/DS%20602-021.pdf). Is this the most ideal layer to apply to a plug after it's been sanded and leveled with their surfacing primer? Does any one know where to actually order this stuff? None of my normal online retail stores seem to carry it. http://www.expresscomposites.com/duratec1.html these guys carry the clear version but I'd like it in either black or orange, if possible.
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:51 PM   #17
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You could put black pigment in it or buy a Gallon of black primer surfacer then follow with the clear. It will look like you painted and cleared it with auto 2k materials.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:28 AM   #18
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You could try Composites One for Duratec. Fiberlay has products similar to Duratec. It is called Orca Air Dry Coatings. They have both polyester and vinylester based products. Sanding, surfacing, and clear (I don't know if they have colored top coats).
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:52 PM   #19
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I called into expresscomposites.com today and they actually do have the black vinylester top coat (1902-045) in stock even though it's not listed on their website. Not too cheap at $136 a gallon but the clear, which is listed as $95 on their website, is really $122 when you call in to place an order, so the other options aren't great either.


Can the clear VE topcoats be thinned with a lacquer thinner, a la the PE primers?

Thanks for the suggestions!
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