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Old 04-16-2013, 02:28 AM   #11
jimff1

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great job !!!
i'm in the process to make a carbon tank for my bike (2008 kawasaki zx10r) since it's the only part missing from my "carbon project". i would appreciate if you like to share some information with me about some questions i have
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:30 AM   #12
peddro

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Thank you for your kind comments.

Sduffass:-
I use a mixture of either 200gsm or 375gsm depending on each part I make, also different amounts in areas which need more strength, mounting points ect.
A typical side fairing I would use 3 x 200gsm, plus 1 x carbon/Kevlar just on the mounting points.
On a seat unit or something similar, if required I use Lantor Corematt, or Corecell,

http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.u...r-coremat.aspx
http://www.marineware.com/index.php?...layout=default

However I am no expert, as others on here are far more experienced than myself.

“a double”:-
The Vee seam is ok but not 100% perfect as I haven’t lined up the twill spot-on.
I lay-up one piece with a “dead cut” in the mold on a joint line in the mold, or on a feature line on the part, then the second part is “overlapped” on the back by about 20mm so its not a “Butt joint” however you can’t see the joint line when doing this so its always a bit of a guess work as I never know how good its going to be until I remove it from the mold, sorry but it’s the only way I have managed to get a half good looking seem.
Hence why the twill doesn’t line up perfect, but it will do for me until I try pre-preg in the future.
To seal the mold, rather than try to seal all the joints I cheat & I just put the whole mold in a large vacuum bag, and on the joints I put tape over the nuts & bolts to prevent them from bursting the Vac-bag.

Banned:-
I just take my time & thoroughly wet out the carbon, & I use Gurit Ampreg 21
http://www.gurit.com/files/documents/ampreg-21v7pdf.pdf
This allows me from 2 – 3 hours to latest vac on, depending on the temp, so it’s not a mad rush, I also wet out an off-cut of carbon and wet this out when I start as this helps me to gauge the latest time I need to put the vacuum on.
Sorry never tried infusion or pre-preg so couldn’t comment, but will try both in the future.
Last of all a great deal of credit must go to my painter who gets a great finish with the Clear coat lacquer, its straight from the gun, no flatting and buffing, & it still looks wet, mind you he isn’t cheap.

Hope this helps.

Best regards.
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:36 AM   #13
peddro

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimff1 View Post
great job !!!
i'm in the process to make a carbon tank for my bike (2008 kawasaki zx10r) since it's the only part missing from my "carbon project". i would appreciate if you like to share some information with me about some questions i have
Yep sure send me a PM.

Best regards
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:55 AM   #14
mugget

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Welcome to the forum peddro! I for one am very glad that you chose to join, I only just read the article about the Aprilia 485 in the current issue of Performance Bikes! Very very nice work on the fairings for that bike... you have no need to worry about your work not being up to the standard of this forum, in fact I think you just raised the standard significantly!
Haha

I'm wondering - is there any reason in particular that you don't use Kevlar or similar on the entire panel? Aren't you worried about splinters or shards flying off in a crash? Or has that never been a big problem for you?
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:41 AM   #15
peddro

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Hi Mugget,

That was very kind.
Yep I had a great time in Australia back in February this year with the Aprilia RS485.

As for the Carbon/Kevlar, I have always had difficulty when trimming to get a nice clean edge to the panel/part, but with Carbon it is much quicker to get a clean finished edge on the part.
I use just Dremel with different cutting discs but I havent been able to get a perfect edge, so must be doing something wrong?

At present if I have Kevlar to trim I get a "rough edge like the Kevlar has just been frayed rather than cut" then I have to seal that edge with resin, then flat off excess resin, so takes up a lot of extra time.
So I just reinforce the mounting points ect.
However I have got to master this as I have got a fairing & seat kit for a Honda RC45 to make and have been asked that it is Carbon/Kevlar inside only.
Can anyone please advise me? as this would save me a great deal of time.

Many thanks for the warm welcome.

Best regards
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:20 AM   #16
.kyle

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Quote:
Originally Posted by peddro View Post


At present if I have Kevlar to trim I get a "rough edge like the Kevlar has just been frayed rather than cut" then I have to seal that edge with resin, then flat off excess resin, so takes up a lot of extra time.

Would trimming the kevlar slightly shorter (say 2 or 3mm) than the edges of the part not work for you? That way you won't have to trim it when the part is cured, thus getting rid of the frayed look and the hassle of touching up the edges with resin.
You'd still retain the useful properties of kevlar (just not at the very edges of the part).
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:05 PM   #17
gwader

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Really nice!
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:45 PM   #18
sduffass

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Peddro. The REAL question is are you a liverpool, chelsea, man u, or man city fan.

Also next time you do a split mould would you be so kind to start a thread and post pictures of the process? I'm sure many people would be curious because I myself am still working on open moulding.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:09 AM   #19
a_double

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Hi Pedro, would you be kind enough to share your setup for heat curing also how long do u cure your parts for.

thanks
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:28 AM   #20
a_double

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Quote:
Originally Posted by peddro View Post
As per request, here are a few pics of the RG500 seat & Nose Fairing molds
I hope these help?

All self taught so sorry if its not up to the usual std on here.

Suzuki RG500 4 piece seat mold








RG500 Nose Fairing 5 piece mold







After a bit of trimming

hi Pedro, are you also using Apreg 21 for making your molds, also what release system are you using.

thanks
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